Iceland is known as the land of fire and ice! This land has the highest volcanic activity in the world and at the moment there are 3 volcanoes overdue, ready to erupt almost anytime. But it’s the safest country in the world (apart from a volcanic eruption)! The crime rate is so low here that Iceland has a number of volcanoes than their police force! Seriously, it’s not a joke! They have 300 police but total 800 volcanoes out which 200 are active! There are around 13 glaciers in Iceland, but you don’t really see ice everywhere as its name might suggest! It becomes a winter wonderland and covered in snow in winter of course, but the truth is Iceland is greener than it’s neighboring Greenland!
So it’s almost mandatory to see at least one glacier and one volcano when you go to Iceland! And for that, you should take a tour of the south coast route in Katla Geopark! Katla Geopark is one of the UNESCO global geo-parks. On my second day in Iceland, I went on the south coast tour with Iceland Horizon and fall in love with this country!
Hekla and E15 Volcano
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| E15 Volcano under Eyjafjallajokull Glacier |
As we left Reykjavik first volcano we could see from the road was Mount Hekla. It is known as the gateway to heaven. Because of widespread fear about this volcano in the local culture, nobody dared to climb it till the 18th century! Hekla is one of the overdue, ready to erupt volcano in Iceland. The next volcano we could spot was infamous E15, do you remember how the ash flying from this volcano closed down so many airports in Europe and delayed so many flights worldwide in 2010? This volcano’s real name is Eyjafjallajökull but like all other Icelandic names it is so difficult for reporters to pronounce and remember so they made the name short E15. Icelandic people are still using Viking’s original language, but if you find the names very difficult you can always ask your tour guide his or her American name! Very funnily when E15’s ash was creating chaos in Europe but Iceland’s Reykjavik airport, which is just a few hours from this volcano was open and fully functional, just because the wind was taking volcanic ash in opposite direction to the east! E15 is under the icecap of Eyjafjallajökull glacier and the black part on the glacier is the layer of ash from the eruption.
The Porvaldseyri farm situated at the foot of E15 is there since a century in the same family. Can you imagine how it must be living there with a huge volcano looming over their shoulders? In addition to being a traditional sheep and milk producers, the farm is working towards self-sufficiency, with their own hydro-electric generator, on-site hot and cold water sources and growing barley, wheat and rapeseed (canola). Interesting!
Icelandic Turf Houses
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| Icelandic Turf Houses |
Immediately after E15 viewpoint, you can take a look at old houses of Drangshlid, which are basically traditional Icelandic homes and no they are not igloos! These turf houses were built by using natural materials just near the base of the mountains. The turf provides cozy warmness for cold winters, it’s definitely one of those early green roofs and a great example of sustainable building design! I think there is great potential for these kinds of Icelandic turf house accommodation in Iceland which can be a great addition to sustainable tourism here! While seeing these houses I remembered our stay in Turkey’s Cappadocia cave house! I would love to stay in such a turf house in Iceland! And if you find it a bit spooky, then you are not completely wrong, there are many stories of Elves living in this area of Drangshlid. And don’t be surprised to know that Icelanders believe in elves and trolls even in present day society.
Skogafoss
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| Skogafoss |
With a lot of interesting stories, our guide took us to Skogafoss, that famous fall in Iceland with two rainbows! It was a great sunny day and not just sun but even luck was shining at us, the moment we reached we saw those double rainbows, it felt like I am looking at heaven! This fall is on Skoga river and the cliffs are ancient coastal cliffs,
which were formed by marine erosion at the end
of the last ice age when the sea level was much
higher than it is now.
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| A full rainbow of 180 degrees at Skogafoss |
As there are many glaciers around Iceland, you get to see many waterfalls but I think this is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. Iceland water is so pure, straight from glaciers and thanks to lesser pollution and less population, of course, the water remains clean.
Heart of Volcano on the Black Beach
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| Basalt Rock Formation |
While planning the trip, I was fascinated by the black beach! So when our guide parked the vehicle, I started walking straight to the beach. It’s the first black beach I have ever seen in my life. Our tour guide told us there is the heart of an ancient volcano on the beach. Because of continuous erosion for many many years, one of the ancient volcanic craters is now exposed. So I decided to believe in our guide’s story and explore the igneous rock formation.
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| Black Sand Beach |
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| Cave or possibly ancient magma chamber on the beach |
The Reynisfjara beach is actually volcanic basalt sand and pebble beach and is one the most beautiful beaches in the world. There are basalt coastal cliffs battered by the sea makes the views of the beach even more beautiful. The arch formation on other side of the beach is spectacular! From May to August these coastal cliffs are inhabited by puffin colonies. Puffins are one of the few birds who can fly and even swim under the water. There is folklore that these two cliffs are trolls who caught rising sunlight and transformed into light. The sea current here is usually rough, but as there is no landmass between Iceland and Antarctica, Atlantic rollers can attack here with full force. It was very windy and cold here so it was very comforting to have Icelandic soup in the only restaurant near the beach.
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| Magma Intrusions on the beach |
Glacier Walk
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| Walk on Solheimajokull Glacier |
Our next stop was Solheimajokull Glacier which is part of the Myrdalsjokull Ice-cap and home to Katla volcano, which is overdue and ready to erupt and situated under this icecap!
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| The tongue of Solheimajokull Glacier |
But the first thing you notice when you reach the glacier is, the impact of climate change! When we reached the tongue of the glacier, we could see a large glacier lake, which is basically the water accumulated after the melting of ice in the glacier. Our guide showed us how much the glacier has retreated in just last 30 years. Of course, there is a volcano under this glacier so it has an impact on it, but you can’t deny the effect of climate change, when you see it first hand!
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| Ice formation in Glacier |
The thick black layers you can see on the ice is accumulated ash from Eyjafjallajökull volcano in 2010, which is on the west of Solheimajokull Glacier! Here we took a short walk on the glacier. It is always very slippery on the edge of the glacier, where ice is melting but it was one of a kind experience. We got to see some glacier terrain features like dirt cones, ice ridge, crevasses. Our tour guide told us, when the crevasses are formed and ice fall open the colour of ice surface appears blue. The reason behind it, when ice is formed in glacier the air bubbles squeeze out because of the pressure of ice and as a result, ice in glacier reflects blue color. While seeing that fresh blue color of the ice you can’t think of volcano and hot lava with fire at the same moment. But Nature is so amazing, under the same icecap there is an active volcano, Katla!
Around the glacier, we could spot many igneous rock formation. I am sure Katla geo-park must be heaven for geologist around the world.
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| Igneous Rocks |
Seljalandsfoss
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| A walk behind Seljalandfoss |
This waterfall is on Seljalands river which originates in Eyjafjallajökull glacier. It is one of the very popular spot among tourists but I would say it’s worth visiting. How many times do you get to walk behind a tall natural waterfall and marvel its beauty from all possible angles? You need to make sure you are wearing a raincoat if you don’t want to get a drenched feel even colder. Don’t forget to look at the different plant and moss species when you are behind the falls. It’s really very beautiful there!
This tour to the south coast in Katla Gor park with Iceland Horizon was very memorable for me. Golden circle route is very popular, but I would say if you want to have a glimpse of Fire (actually volcano) and Ice, you need to go on South shore trip! Don’t forget to take your water bottle and coffee mug with you to reduce waste. You can refill your water bottle on any tap, as tap water is drinkable in Iceland. I even carried my snacks and nuts in my cloth snack bag to keep my tour waste free!
Be curious in Nature but don’t harm it!
Also highly recommend this unique guide ‘Sustainable Travel to Iceland‘, don’t forget to download the free guide which will come handy during your travel.